
The Jack Rose is a quintessentially American cocktail based on an historic ingredient: applejack. Applejack was one of the first spirits created in the New World by concentrating apple cider by freeze distillation. Today, applejack is produced primarily by the Laird family in New Jersey, under the eponymous brand. They’ve been making the stuff since they emigrated from Scotland in 1698, and still make it today in Scobeyville, NJ. The only ingredients in applejack are apple spirits and “neutral spirits,” which the Laird’s people assure me is made from corn. Harder to find is Laird’s “straight bonded” product, which is 100% apple spirits. Either way, applejack makes great gluten-free drinks, is historical, and delicious.
The Jack Rose cocktail has a dramatic history, recounted by cocktail guru and historian David Wondrich for Esquire: Jack Rose was a bald liar. In the early-morning hours of July 13, 1912, a mid-level gambler by the name of Herman Rosenthal was called away from the 2 a.m. ginger ale he was sipping in the bar of Times Square’s Hotel Metropole and shot four times in the head. Bald Jack Rose was the guy who handled the contract. Here’s the liar part: When Herbert Bayard Swope of the New York World and D.A. Charlie Whitman got together — for reasons too complex to go into in a drink essay — to pin the hit on a certain Lieutenant Charles Becker of the NYPD’s antigambling squad, Rose was their star witness. Perjured himself with enthusiasm and imagination (and, of course, saved his neck). It was the trial of the century; little did they know. Becker went to the chair, Whitman to the governor’s office, Swope to the executive editorship of the World, and Rose — well, he went into the catering business.
It’s even remotely possible that Rose himself invented this drink; he was somewhat of a celebrity (whatever became of that Kaelin fellow, anyway?) and not averse to cashing in on his ill-gotten fame. But whoever it was, he was a clever bugger — the drink is based on applejack, and it’s rose-pink. Play on words. In any case, the Jack Rose is an effective testament to its namesake: It’s smooth and sweetish and deeply deceptive. Sipping it, you can’t tell it contains liquor of any kind, let alone applejack. Ironic, that. The one classic cocktail to use New Jersey’s indigenous firewater, and you can’t even taste it.
Wondrich’s recipe is the one I prefer for its balance of flavors, though others recommend lemon instead of lime, or equal ratios of spirits and citrus.
Jack Rose Ingredients
- 2 oz applejack
- 1 oz fresh lime
- 1/2 oz grenadine
Method – Shake all ingredients over lots of ice and serve up in a chilled cocktail glass.
To really get the most out of your Jack Rose, I strongly recommend making homemade grenadine. Here’s my recipe, adapted from Jeffrey Morgenthal’s. I prefer this recipe because it’s much easier than the cold process, but preserves the complexity of flavor from the hot process concentration step by incorporating pomegranate molasses. A note on ingredients: middle eastern markets are a great place to look for orange blossom water, pomegranate juice, and pomegranate molasses that are all gluten-free. Look for the ingredients in the latter to contain only 100% pomegranate juice. Note that if you double the recipe, you should not double the orange blossom water. Rain brand vodka is a corn vodka that makes excellent gluten-free drinks.
Gluten-free Grenadine Ingredients for Gluten-free Drinks
- 2 cups 100% pomegranate juice
- 2 cups (10 oz by weight) white sugar
- 1/4 c pomegranate molasses
- 1 tsp orange blossom water
- 1 oz vodka (as preservative)
Method
- Heat juice with sugar in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly, just until sugar dissolves. Do not boil.
- Off heat, stir in pomegranate molasses, orange blossom water, and vodka. NOTE: measure the orange blossom water carefully! Too much will make your grenadine taste soapy.
- Cool. Store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months and make delicious gluten-free drinks easily.
The flavor is certainly sweet, but is also complex: tart and floral. Homemade grenadine stands so far above the HFCS and red-dye concoctions available at the liquor store, it’s not even a fair comparison. If you manage to exercise restraint and not to drink up all your grenadine in Jack Roses, I recommend it over pancakes or waffles in place of maple syrup, over vanilla ice cream, or as a part of a salad dressing with balsamic vinegar.